It is known that the winter in our latitudes sometimes happens quite severe, and rates for utilities permanently grow. Therefore it isn’t so surprising that the subject of warming of the dwelling every day everything becomes more actual. Any normal master if wasn’t warmed yet, for certain already thinks of it.
Technologies in the modern world don’t stand still, and, as well as in any other branch of construction, in warming there is a set of different methods. How to select what is necessary how to make so that in the house (apartment) it became real more warmly?
Without being the ultimate truth, I will try to help you to understand this question. So, first of all there is a wish to mark that (in my opinion) between the theory and practice in the field of warming there is a certain gap. There is it because those who sits in offices or test laboratories, and those who directly perform operation, as a rule, aren’t crossed. And still there are groups, consultings or simply the companies lobbying the interests (advancing) in the market in this connection technologies of warming are sometimes spoiled simply to a frank disgrace. Therein we will sort also it.
But it so, lyrical digression. The first question arising at the person, wishing to warm housing – where it to do – from within, on a facade, or both there and there?
It is simpler to be warmed from within at least by that it simpler and can be made all operation most. However, there are also minuses. Having got excited, we can significantly reduce the area and without that not very spacious housing, isn’t that so?
From this point of view to warm a facade – the optimum decision. However here, except more difficult technology, most likely, it is necessary to entrust business to the expert that significantly increases prime cost of the project.
To warm both outside, and from within? Very warmly, but it is VERY expensive!
Let’s stop on warming of a facade of the private house.
Than it is better to warm walls – mineral wool or polyfoam? The definite answer isn’t present. It would seem, the option with polyfoam looks more preferably. Polyfoam is easier, cheaper and simpler in installation. Any front worker will prefer, certainly, polyfoam. However technologists and (or) producers of mineral wool claim that polyfoam much more combustible and possesses much more bigger heat conductivity. Therefore the technology of warming of a facade polyfoam comprises some conditions:
1 . Obligatory fire-prevention cut-offs (on each floor) from mineral wool – allegedly in case of a fire fire won’t be able to extend above or below the ignition center. The doubtful thesis, in my opinion, but that is that is.
2 . The perimeter of a window is surely (!) warmed by mineral wool, and on corners there have to be the inserts which have been cut out from an integral leaf. Because of the same reasons of fire safety.
3 . Before gluing of polyfoam it is recommended to level a surface on beacons. Polyfoam, you see “sweats” if between a leaf and a wall there is an air layer. It is simple in any gate! The most fantastic and impracticable condition! How many plaster will leave on alignment if difference of vertical level between the ground and ninth floor is, say, ten centimeters (that keeps within any state standard specifications and admissions! ) ? It is terrible even to present! Cost and without that expensive pleasure increases in times! And, certainly, ANYBODY so doesn’t do!
Personally it seems to me – producers of mineral wool and plaster mixes thus simply protect the interests, however to solve something in any case to you!
What it is necessary for us? Glue, umbrellas with nails (here on what it is better on to save! ) corners with a grid, silicone (or a special tape), a reinforcing grid, decorative plaster, a primer, paint, eaves from galvanization (probably).
Ah and – still a special level on which we will put the first row of a heater. In case we don’t warm a socle. It from materials.
On the tool. Section of “woods” or mobile “round”, a drill, the puncher, a trough, buckets, the pallet – tens and five-tens, knifes on gypsum cardboard, drills (under umbrellas), a hammer, rollers under a primer and paint, rollers under decorative painting (probably), brushes. It seems all…
Well, we will begin installation?
It is very important to expose the bottom row on horizontal level! It will help us to avoid many problems, from which enormous cracks between heater sheets will be main.
Another matter – vertical level! Everything depends on our desire and opportunities. If you wish that your facade was as on the picture, prepare money! However and demand has to be higher! If simply you want that it was warm, it is possible to lay down, as they say, a heater “on a wall”. For uninitiated differences any, and economy considerable!
How it is correct to bring glue on a heater? Experts still weren’t defined therefore you proceed from the desires and opportunities. I would choose a median way. Glue has to be not much and much! And it has to be evenly put on a leaf!
Attention! Glue is put ONLY on a pasted surface is to you not a bricklaying!
It is necessary to paste a heater to a wall so that between sheets there were no cracks. Each crack is a leakage of heat, it sooner or later the appeared so-called “dew-point” conducting to slow or not so to destruction of all our system! According to the technologies, the formed cracks should be closed up the same heater and at all glue or assembly foam! However assembly foam (and under the gun! ) I recommend to walk on cracks after end of the first part of “ballet” – well them, these technologists! Well and, of course, at least occasionally we don’t forget about “bandaging”!
Weren’t tired yet?
Then the most tiresome – use of expansion bolt shields! Here too not everything is so simple – how many “experts”, it is so much and opinions! According to technology, AT ALL it isn’t necessary attaching expansion bolt shields a heater at the same time with gluing of sheets! And here I, perhaps, will agree with experts. “Fresh” sheets of a heater often “play” under pressure of the puncher, is unpredictable “breaking” any levels. Hold your horses! Let’s glue dry up! Also don’t save on expansion bolt shields! ! ! !
How many expansion bolt shields on a leaf and where exactly – a big question! According to the last recommendations, in the center of the sheet one expansion bolt shield will suffice also. On corners is self-evident!
Though, probably, all this and in vain! Anywhere it won’t get to, this leaf of a heater! After all after use of expansion bolt shields there is a reinforcing process. Reinforcing is when the surface of a heater “amplifies” a special grid by means of the same glue. You sometime used filling? If isn’t present – means you lived life in vain! Try, while the getting is good! Believe, it is very interesting!
Yes! Also don’t forget about corners and slopes! In a place of an adjunction of a heater to a wall (where the heater just also comes to an end) you will find a small hole. You don’t hurry to shower in it glue is same “dew-point” about which we spoke above. Accurately we stick a crack with a special tape, stupidly we cover with silicone or… Again foam?
Weren’t tired yet?
Many “experts” ignore a so-called “fair” layer of reinforcing. Very much even in vain! If to be limited to only one layer, sooner or later on a facade contours of a heater and even “traces” of expansion bolt shields will be shown. And it will be much better to look a facade with a fair layer. And if accurately to put the third – to you will envy all! Also be not afraid! On each following layer leaves less glue. We don’t forget to allow to dry to each layer!
The turn of decorative painting came! Here it is possible to afford a flight of fancy – exists as a set of different types of decorative plaster, and ways of its drawing. Will understand!